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Rigging a Used CNC Machine: Prep, Power, Air and Who Pays

Every used machine deal has a move in it, and the move is the cost people forget. Getting a machine out of one building and running in another means locking it down, disconnecting it safely, lifting it at the right points, trucking it, and setting it level with the right power and air. This checklist walks through each step for buyers and sellers. Rigging prices vary too much by weight, distance and access to quote here, so get written quotes for your job.

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1. Before anyone quotes the move

  • Get the machine weight and footprint from the manual or the builder, not a guess. Riggers price the job on weight, size and access.
  • Find the lifting points. The manual usually shows where to lift, whether by forklift, through lifting holes with bars, or by crane, and which spots must never take a load.
  • Measure the path out: door width and height, aisles, ramps, turns, and the dock or drive-in. Include anything sticking out, like the control pendant, chip conveyor or coolant tank.
  • Ask about the floor on both ends. A heavy machine on a thin slab, or rolled over a weak spot, is a real risk. If you are unsure, ask the rigger or a contractor to look.
  • Take photos and a short video of the path, the machine and the door for the rigger. It saves a site visit and avoids surprises on moving day.

2. Prep the machine to travel

  • Back up the parameters, offsets and programs before the power goes off, and keep a copy with the machine paperwork.
  • Park the axes where the manual says to for shipping, then install the shipping brackets or blocks to lock the axes, spindle head, tool changer or turret.
  • Pull the tools out of the spindle, carousel or turret. Loose tools and holders break things in transit.
  • Drain the coolant tank and clean out chips. Close up or drain anything else that can spill, following the manual.
  • Tie down or remove loose parts: the pendant, doors, chip conveyor, coolant tank, bar feeder and work lights. Label anything that comes off.
  • If brackets are missing, ask the builder or a rigger who knows that model how to lock it. Do not move a machine with free-floating axes.

3. Disconnect power and air the right way

  • Use a licensed electrician to disconnect the power. Lock out the supply and label the wires so the hookup at the other end is clean.
  • Bleed off the air and cap the fittings. Note the air pressure the machine needs, from the manual or the nameplate.
  • Note anything else that is plumbed in: a mist collector, chiller, bar feeder interface or external coolant unit.

4. Pick and book the rigger

  • Ask for a written quote that names what is included: lift, load, trucking, set in place, and whether they remove and reinstall anything.
  • Ask for a certificate of insurance before moving day, and check what it covers. Your landlord or the selling shop may require one too.
  • Ask whether they have moved this type and size of machine and how they plan to lift it: forklift, skates, gantry or crane.
  • Confirm the date, the pickup window, and who has to be on site at each end.

5. At the new shop: set, level, hook up

  • Prepare the spot before the truck arrives: clear floor, enough room to open doors and service the cabinet, and a flat, solid slab.
  • Have the power ready. A licensed electrician confirms the shop supply matches the nameplate voltage, phase and amperage and installs a properly sized disconnect near the machine. If the voltage does not match, ask whether a transformer is needed.
  • Run clean, dry air to the machine with a filter and regulator, at the pressure the manual calls for.
  • Remove every shipping bracket before you power on or jog. Keep the brackets for the next move.
  • Level the machine using the builder's procedure, then check it again after it has sat for a while.
  • Power up, check for alarms, restore the backup if needed, warm up the spindle and run each axis before cutting parts.

Who pays, and get it in writing

Seller usually handles

Making the machine accessible, a working demo under power before the sale, the parameter backup, manuals, and clear floor space around it. See the seller prep checklist.

Buyer usually handles

The rigger, the trucking and the setup at the new shop, unless the deal says otherwise. Price the move into your offer before you agree on a number. See the buyer checklist.

Write down

Who disconnects, who rigs, who trucks, who carries insurance, who is liable for damage, and the pickup date and window. A one-page agreement prevents most disputes.

How the move affects the price

A buyer subtracts the cost and risk of getting the machine out. A machine on a dock with a wide door, under power and with its shipping brackets on hand, is easier to sell than one in a basement or behind a narrow door. If you are selling, say how it gets out in the listing. See how a CNC machine valuation works and selling a used CNC machine in Massachusetts.

Rigging FAQ

What does a rigger actually do when moving a CNC machine?

A rigger lifts the machine, moves it out of the building, loads and secures it on the truck, and sets it at the new shop. Many riggers also handle the trucking and set the machine on its final spot. The electrical disconnect and hookup are usually done by a licensed electrician, not the rigger, so ask who covers what before you book.

Who pays for rigging on a used machine sale?

There is no single rule. In many used sales the buyer pays to get the machine out and moved, and the seller makes it ready and accessible. Whatever you agree, put it in writing before the sale: who disconnects, who rigs, who trucks, who is liable for damage, and the pickup window.

What are shipping brackets on a CNC machine?

They are the brackets or blocks the builder uses to lock the axes, spindle head, tool changer or turret so nothing moves in transit. The manual usually shows where they go. If the brackets are missing, ask the builder or a rigger who knows that model how to lock the axes before it moves.

Do I need to re-level a CNC machine after it is moved?

Yes. Expect to level it on its leveling screws or pads at the new shop, then check it before you cut parts. Many builders publish a leveling procedure in the manual. A machine run off level can twist the base and hurt accuracy.

How do I get the power ready for a used CNC machine?

Read the electrical nameplate for voltage, phase and amperage, then have a licensed electrician confirm your shop supply matches and install a properly sized disconnect near the machine. If the voltage does not match, the electrician can tell you whether the machine needs a transformer.